Sunday, December 27, 2009
There´s No Place Like Home
The bus to Puntarenas was boarding when I arrived and I snagged one of the last few seats for the 2.5 hour ride. Once in Puntarenas I inquired about the ferry and I thought I heard it was 200 meters, so I set out walking. 200 meters later I asked again and heard 2 kilometers. Yep, that warranted a taxi. I grabbed a lunch to go and hopped in line for the ferry, and that´s when I had my moment of what was I thinking because it felt like the sun was searing my skin and I hadn´t worn sunscreen. But the feeling subsided when I thought about how cold the nights were in Ecuador. The ferry was an easy 1.5 hour ride and immediately upon embarking I hopped in a bus for Montezuma.
By bus I mean school bus with a creaky back door that seemed like it might fall open at any time and brakes that had to have been worn out two years ago. It was a 1.5 hour ride and we arrived at nightfall. I had tried to ignore discussions on the bus of sold out hostels and hotels, knowing full well that there are plenty of places to stay NOT in the Lonely Planet guidebook. Nonetheless, I was one of the first out of the bus and set about finding a room. I was successful on my second try and didn´t even bother saying I wanted to look at other places first. Which leaves me with a room without a fan or A-C. A-C I didn´t expect, a fan I did, considering it doesn´t cool down much at night. I do, however, have windows, which while providing a bit of ventilation, also provide lots of noise from the steps that are adjacent to them and lead to the upstairs rooms. Oh, well. It may only be for a few days.
I spent most of the day on the beach soaking up sun, reading, and eating in a beachside restaurant for lunch, oh, and missing my beach buddies from the summer--Jen, Jessica, Julie, and Em. Just the kind of lazy day I needed after a 13-hour commute yesterday. I also booked a diving tour for tomorrow. I had slightly more money in the bank account than I thought, so I decided I should treat myself. It was also interesting because I booked with a company that actually runs a volunteer program as well. I want to find out more about volunteering to teach English because that could give me something to do if I choose to stay here for a couple of weeks. And it was interesting because the co-owner, a Tico, actually asked the other co-owner, a US girl, if I was a Tica. Apparently my Spanish had convinced him I was a local girl. I think my dark tanned skin helped lend credence to that thought.
I haven´t decided yet when I will leave here. I´ve thought maybe Tuesday. I´ve thought maybe Wednesday. Unless I volunteer in which case I could stay here til the 8th. If I choose to leave, though, I´ll probably head to Dominical for its famous beach and then maybe back to Manuel Antonio for its beach. What better way to start the new year.
But the strangest part of my day happened just a few minutes ago. As I was opening up a new Internet window to start this blog, I heard a voice speaking with a German accent that I thought I recognized. I turned to my left, and two chairs down was Leoni, a volunteer I know from Silencio. She was as shocked as I was, and we turned a few heads when we exclaimed OMG and stood up to hug. She and her friend are only here for one more day, but nonetheless, I don´t have to eat alone tonight.
Yep, there´s no place like home . . .
Friday, December 25, 2009
Craziness
Wendy arrived in Quito Thursday night, the 17th, with many gifts in hand. My family surprised me with a Christmas card that they had all signed. Considering they live in four different towns and three different states, this was a remarkable feat for them that took some definite planning. And my grandmother was insistent that Wendy bring me some chocolate and peanut butter fudge because she knows it´s my favorite. Emily sent me more CDs than I had even asked her for, and I can´t wait to listen to them, and she sent me two packages of the blessed Tim Tams (one of which we consumed with Viviana and her family, doing the Tim Tam Slam!). I´m sending up a thank you right now to Pepperidge Farms for deciding to manufacture them again, and to Em for knowing that I´d want them. And then Wendy brought me my favorite toothpaste I had asked for as well as the lotion I wanted.
We hit the ground running on the morning of the 18th with a 2-hour taxi ride to Otavalo. We checked in with Viviana and my school and then headed for lunch followed by a trip to El Parque de Cóndors where they have different types of birds. There is a trail leading from the park to the Peguche waterfall where I had been the week before, so we had decided to do that. I asked Viviana and her sister if it was easy to find and they said yes; what they didn´t tell me is that the trail itself wasn´t easy--quite steep actually, nor that at times we might be completely and utterly confused about which trail to follow. Since there are lots of locals that live in and around there, there are lots of little worn paths that may or may not be the trail to the waterfall, and this isn´t a national park with abundant signage. In fact, there was no signage. We crept down the dusty, slippery trail and finally arrived a little after 5, at the same time the rain chose to arrive. A few quick pics and then we headed back the good trail and promptly became drenched. We had no luck trying to call a taxi when we reached the trail head, but only had to wait a few more minutes for a bus. Otavalo, of course, was completely dry, and when we walked into the kitchen, Viviana asked if we had swam in the waterfall. It sort of looked that way, but it had been much too cold for that.
Saturday dawned cold and rainy; in fact, our clothes were wetter that morning than when we had taken them off the day before. We passed time eating, using the Internet cafe, and occasionally walking around town in the market, though it was a sad, sad market day with the rain. Lots of vendors were absent.
Sunday´s weather was much improved and we headed up to Lake Cuicoche, where I had been the week before. We did the boat trip, and I´m glad it only cost $2.50 because it was worth even less than that. It´s one of those tourist traps that I usually try to avoid, and I can´t say that the chilly ride was worth it, especially given that the commentary was in Spanish. I understood only some of it.
That afternoon we quickly hailed a bus back to Quito in the street. It barely even stopped long enough for us to board. I threw my small backpack in the overhead compartment, thinking at the time it was a bad idea because my memory is crap, but without much choice since I already had another small backpack in my lap. Of course, when we arrived in Quito, I promptly disembarked and hopped in a cab. Only when we arrived at the hostel 45 minutes later and I looked for my bag did I realize where it was--in the overhead compartment on the bus. A few minutes later we were headed back to the terminal. The guys there were really nice and tried to be helpful, but given that we had hailed the bus in the street, we didn´t have tickets, so I knew neither the bus number nor the bus company, making it impossible to determine which bus had my bag. I was informed that since I was the last one off the bus, likely the ticket taker on the bus had taken it as there is ¨mucho corrupcion.¨ I don´t think you need a Spanish dictionary to translate that phrase!
Monday morning I hopped up bright and early because I wanted to elicit Franklin´s help with calling the two bus companies I thought might possibly have my bag. He didn´t answer his phone, and trying to find phone numbers for the companies proved equally impossible. I made the decision then to accept what I had lost and begin to replace what I could. Of course, every few hours I would realize something else I had forgotten was in the bag. In fact, just this morning, I realized I had lost a pair of shorts I didn´t know I had lost. I feel like two months from now I´ll still be thinking of things I had crammed in that bag. Here´s the tally on what I lost and what I´ve replaced (as far as my brain can remember at this very moment):
- charger for Zune and electronic book (ordered replacements, will have soon)
- camera battery charger and USB cable (ordered replacements, will have soon)
- dental retainers (my dentist had replacements already, and I´ll have these soon)
- glasses (won´t replace, too expensive)
- 3 pairs of disposable contact lenses (fortunately I have three more pair and if I don´t lose any, I can make these last until June)
- toiletries (replaced)
- two tank tops (replaced)
- two pairs of shorts (replaced at used clothing store today)
- camping towel and washcloth (replaced)
- flashlight (replaced)
- underwear (replaced)
- pair of camping pants (replaced with a skirt at a used clothing store today)
- $100--I think (Terri graciously donated $100, so I guess this has been replaced)
- backpack itself (not replacing; stuff just has to fit in less space)
- jump drive (not replacing; fortunately most everything important I had emailed to myself anyway)
- Keen sandals (not replacing as the cost to replace here is $117; I have a pair of Tevas at my family´s house in Costa Rica)
Of course, I´ll never get back the hours upon hours that I spent shopping for these things in Quito. Fortunately Monday night, Franklin was a big help (since all I had managed to replace at that point was soap, saline solution and a razor--the shampoo I bought was actually conditioner!). He´s not one of those guys who doesn´t like asking for help. You need tampons? Oh, let me ask the saleslady what aisle those are in!
Monday, I took a break from shopping for Wendy and I to visit the equator. I knew that there was both a real one and a fake one, the fake one being much more publicized. What I didn´t realize was that that fake one is literally a waste of $2. You can´t even go up in the monument as that´s another $3. After a brief, very brief stay there, we walked to the real one. We received a tour in English that included information about the indigenous tribes, the Amazon jungle, and then experiments on the equator. We learned that on the two equinoxes for three minutes at noon, a person has absolutely no shadow. And we watched as she drained water from a sink on the equator (no whirlpool--it drains absolutely straight down), and in both hemispheres where it circles in opposite directions. I tried to balance an egg on the head of nail, which is supposedly much easier to do on the equator, but I was unsuccessful and didn´t earn a certificate. Then again, nobody else in my group did either! Bunch of slackers!
Tuesday morning Wendy and I headed to Baños for two nights, taking a 40-minute cab ride and then a 3-hour bus. I´ve almost become immune to the scenery as I had no problem closing my eyes and trying to sleep the whole way. Once in Baños I realized my tennis shoes were among the items I had purposefully left in Quito to save weight in my backpack, but that that left me with only flip flops, not exactly ideal footwear for any of the activities we might want to undertake. So I had to do more shopping. No, ladies, this was not fun shopping. I finally found a pair of flats for $14 with rubber bottoms that I would be able to wear again and that would suffice.
With that task accomplished, we set out to book activities. We decided that night would be a trip to the hot springs, Wed morning would be horseback riding, Wed afternoon would be massages, Wed night would be a trip to the volcano, and Thurs morning would be the waterfall route in a go kart.
The hot springs left a little to be desired as it felt somewhat like a Turkish bath (as if I´ve ever been to one of those). There was just something a little creepy about murky water at night with lots of people I don´t know. We stayed about an hour until we were sweating and headed back to the really nice hostel for $9.50 a night. (They don´t know what hostels are in this country as many of them have private rooms and even private baths.)
The horseback riding Wed morning was fun, although we were both glad it ended early since our legs had had enough. We walked, we trotted, and we even galloped at times, and I talked as much as I could with our guide in Spanish who was wonderful. The scenery was gorgeous, and at one point we got to see the ruins of a house that had been destroyed by the volcano just three years ago. I hadn´t realized the volcano was still active. He did tell us, however, not to bother with the tour that night as the clouds would obscure the view, making it a waste of time. Fine by me, I already had blisters on my heels from the wonderful new pair of flats I had purchased.
Our afternoon massage was warranted after that horseback ride and only set us back $20 each. A small price to pay for an hour´s worth of luxury. That night we had planned to sit up on the rooftop terrace, but I found I was just as content relaxed in my bed with a book, and we opted to stay in instead.
Thursday morning we hopped into a go kart for a tour of the waterfalls, map in hand. We should´ve seen six waterfalls. We managed to see two on the way there, and one on the way back. We´re not sure where they´re hiding the other three. It was quite interesting that we shared the road with regular traffic, despite the fact that we couldn´t have been going more than 30 mph, including heading through mountain tunnels. At one point we stopped to take a cable car across the canyon and back, a quick little trip but well worth the time and the $1 for the views and photos. Not to mention the little flutter in the heart it will give my mom when she sees the photos! (Love you, Mom!)
We arrived back in Quito at the bus station, which is about a 45-minute cab ride from town, and tried to contact our cab driver, who told me he was stuck in traffic. A second phone call to him elicited an I´m sorry, please hire someone else because I can´t get there. Our ride back was eventful to say the least. Traffic on Christmas Eve here was crazy and in intersections where there are no stoplights, it´s literally a free for all. You simply creep into the intersection and worm your way through. At one point, traffic was stuck because of the angles of the cars (we´re talking four lanes of traffic in both directions), and the guy we were blocking wasn´t happy, making our cab driver exit the vehicle and approach his to yell in Spanish something like, What the hell am I supposed to do? I really wanted a birds eye photo of that intersection because I haven´t seen anything like it in my life. At another point we were riding in the part of the street designated for the trolley in order to pass a line of cars; you know you might need to be a little worried when your cab driver buckles his seatbelt. But we were thankful to have an aggressive driver or we would´ve been even later in arriving back to the hostel.
This morning we headed to old Quito to see the historic buildings. We were not prepared for the Christmas traffic. Apparently people here don´t stay home on Christmas morning as they´re all out shopping. After my jackpot at the used clothing store, which was probably the third store we entered, it was a lot of walking around, looking at things and not buying, and trying to avoid being knocked off the sidewalk. We finally extricated ourselves after a little over two hours.
Tonight we´ll have dinner one last time with my friend Franklin and then I´ll see how much stuff I can cram into the remaining space in the backpack. I think most of it will go, and what won´t will go into a plastic sack for me to have as a carry on. What can I say, I travel in style!
Costa Rica, here I come!
Tuesday, December 15, 2009
Passing the Days in Relaxation Mode
Saturday we passed a pleasant evening watching a movie. I had purchased Slumdog Millionaire because Viviana hadn´t seen it, but we lacked the DVD remote control to change the language to Spanish. She said, I´m going to try to understand, but I knew that it would be futile. We ended up watching The Time Traveler´s Wife instead. I´m hoping to set the language on Slumdog to Spanish using a computer so that we can watch it this weekend. I have purchased quite a few movies since I´ve been here as they´re quite cheap and the quality not much lower than you would find with a new disc. For example, I purchased 3 DVDs (one of which contained all 6 Harry Potter movies) for less than $4. And I like being able to watch them in English with the Spanish subtitles (at times just so I can laugh at the sometimes poor translation).
Sunday, Suse and I took a taxi back to Quito. As has been the custom for her in the two weeks that she has been in Ecuador (the absolute first two weeks of her trip), she has had bad luck (one of them being she ended up with gray hair after she miscommunicated with the hairstylist about the color she wanted). The bad luck continued. We were stopped at a roadblock by the police and of course whose bag did they want to open? Hers! I told her I definitely don´t want to stand next to her in a storm because she´ll likely be struck by lightning, but she informed me that next to her would probably be the safest place to stand!
I don´t have a lot to do this week. I needed to print a photo of Romina and purchase a frame so that I can give them a gift Friday. That has been accomplished. I wanted to purchase a book in Spanish. That has been accomplished, and I am now almost 50 pages into Twilight in Spanish, at a rapid clip of 7 minutes per page. The good news is that my new dictionary (the other was falling apart already) is much better even if it still doesn´t have all the words. I could actually read a little faster than I am. At times I understand the meaning of a sentence but will sometimes look up a word for an exact definition. How long I´ll keep up that anal retentiveness remains to be seen.
I haven´t talked to too many people here in Quito, particularly in Spanish, but this morning and afternoon I had occasion to. I stopped in a panaderia (bread shop) to buy a coffee (which by the way sucks here) and a doughnut. As is custom for me, I needed sugar, but when I turned the sugar over to pour into the cup, I discovered quickly that the top was off. The hole of my doughnut was now filled with sugar as was my right flip flop. A local guy quickly informed me that I would have a good day because of this. Spent a couple hours on a blanket in the park and then ate an Ecuadorian lunch. On my return to the hostel, I felt a tap on the shoulder and then the guy from the morning, who I learned is Franklin, popped in front of me asking how my day was. We began to talk and then his friend arrived as well. Franklin works only a few blocks from the hostel and we agreed to have lunch tomorrow. It was a welcome invitation since I have nothing else to do while I wait for Wendy to arrive. When I arrived at the hostel, I had several wonderful emails, some of which I had been waiting for. So maybe Franklin was right--the sugar gave me a good day. Or maybe it´s just that I´m so sweet anyway!
I do actually have a to do list for this week. Today I managed to book my flight back to Costa Rica for the hefty sum of $591, which I booked on a Spanish website as opposed to Expedia who wanted $17 more. As you may know, I had hoped to catch a ride with a friend on a boat out of Columbia, but he already has two more passengers for that voyage than he can comfortably accomodate. He knows others who are making the journey with boats but at a cost of $350, it isn´t worth it since I´d have to spend an additional $100-150 and two days´ travel. I bit the bullet and booked the flight.
But it feels good to have a firm plan again. Those of you who know me know that I function better in life when there is some semblance of a plan for the future. I now know that at 7 p.m. on January 8, 2010 I´ll be back on Costa Rican soil and as soon as I clear customs and immigration, I´ll be back in the arms of someone familiar as he has promised to pick me up at the airport. Only 24 days. I´m hoping to pass a weekend vacation with him before we head back to Silencio, perhaps take him to the hot springs in La Fortuna. There is something comforting in returning to places I know, then again maybe we´ll go somewhere new.
Friday, Wendy and I will make the 2-hour taxi ride to Otavalo where we´ll stay with Viviana and Romina. I´m excited to return there (that whole comforting feeling again). It was a whole lot easier to leave last Sunday knowing that I would be returning shortly. It will be sad to leave their home this Sunday with the knowledge that I might never see them again. That´s the big downside to traveling.
As for this week, I´m spending a lot of time reading or watching movies, and I´m trying to cross some things off my to do list. Don´t worry, there´s nothing stress-inducing on my list, unless of course you consider watching a video of my former student give a speech in front of thousands stress-inducing.
I´m grateful to have no holiday stress-inducers on my list--no holiday cards to write, no shopping to do, no decorations to hang or tree to trim, no mandatory parties to attend, no worrying about whether to buy someone something or not, no cookies to make (truth be told, I gave some of these things up years ago!).
And with that said, I hereby publicly announce my aversion to the Christmas season with all its excesses and promise to have a drink on Christmas to toast my non-celebration of this completely overdone and wasteful holiday.
Wednesday, December 9, 2009
My Brain Has No Good Title for This Entry
Friday, December 4, 2009
Un Blog en Español
Esta semaña yo estudié en una escuela por cuatro horas por dia. Hablé en español, escribí, y leí. A veces es fácil, a veces es frustrante. Ayer comencí hacer tarjetas para memorizar vocabulario. Tengo una semaña mas en la escuela y no más. Despúes la proxima semaña he estudiado por cuatro semañas totalmente. No necesito estudiar en una escuela mas; en cambio necesito hablar y leer para aprender vocabulario. La mayoria del tiempo me gusta hablar en español. Me di cuenta de yo he hablado por sólo trés meses aunque he viajado por cuatro meses. A veces me quedé en lugares donde hablar español no era necesario.
Mañana iré al mercado con Viviana. Los sábados ella compra comida por la siguiente semana. Ella es una buena cocinera. Sólo una vez no me gustó la comida. Era una sopa fría como ceviche. No pude comer y me sentí mal, pero a ella no le molestó. Ella me dijo que un costumbre para estudiantes es comer para la família, pero no puedo cocinar. En cambio, tal vez vamos al restaurante para comer mí último dia.
Me gusta mí família y Otavalo pero extraño mucho Costa Rica. Quiero volver pronto. Ayer llamé a Diego y hablamos por 50 minutos. Le dije que quiero volver en enero en cambio de febrero y me dijo, esta bien. Me gusta hablar con él porque siempre él me hace reír mucho. Voy a llamarle mañana también. La vida es difícil cuando él está allá y estoy acá. Cuando llegué en Costa Rica, no sabia que voy a sentirme como esto pero me alegro.
Estoy esperando por muchos correos electrónicos. Quiero ir a Panama en un barco con un amigo. Él es en los estados unidos ahora pero va a volver a Columbia en una semana mas o menos. Cuando hablamos en agosto, él fue a ir a Panama en enero. Sí voy con él es muy barato y mas interesante.
También estoy esperando por un correo de una chica en Uvita, Costa Rica quien enseña inglés allá. Ella trabaja por una organización y quiero mas información porque quiero trabajar y vivir en Costa Rica el próximo año. Pero yo necesito mas plata para eso. Tendré la plata sí vendo mí multipropiedad; espero que sí.
Yo sé que viviré en Costa Rica en 2010. Sí yo pienso que viviré acá, entonces, viviré acá. No estaré preocupada como pasaré.
Wednesday, December 2, 2009
Killing Time
Saturday, November 28, 2009
The Non Bucket List Bucket List
- milk a cow
- help butcher a cow
- help butcher a pig
- drink liquor made only in another country (Cacique)
- find a boyfriend in another country who doesn´t speak English
- eat pig liver (sort of wish I could take this one back)
- ride double on a bicycle made for one (three times, once at night, always scared)
- touch a jellyfish
- make jokes in Spanish that make people laugh
- make a phone call in Spanish (which I´ve done numerous times now and which still makes me nervous); this item has prompted me to add to my real bucket list the following: ¨make a phone call in Spanish without having to say ´que´ even once because I understand everything¨
If you can think of other things that I´ve probably left off my non bucket list bucket list, please let me know. I´d hate to have an inaccurate non bucket list bucket list.
And then there are those things you see which you never thought you´d see. The three most recent ones I feel compelled to document here.
First, I saw a guy driving an ATV and brushing his teeth--at the same time. It was morning, and I´m guessing he was running late.
Second, I saw two people dragging car batteries down the street in Quito this morning. Strings tied to the batteries, just pulling them along as if it was the most natural thing in the world to do.
Third, I saw a guy with an IV in his arm and a drip bag (whatever those things are called) in the middle of the street panhandling. Panhandling is extremely common here in Ecuador as is walking down the middle of the street selling things. This guy was clearly playing his sympathy card, as were the little girls doing cartwheels in the street. I thought it was cute until I realized why they were doing it, and then I just felt incredibly sad for them.
As for my current location, I´d love to tell you, but then those insurance people might find me and force me to pay the bill that I really, really, really don´t want to pay. Then again, if you´re on facebook, you already know where I am. Hopefully, you can keep a secret cause did I mention that I really, really, really don´t want to pay that bill.